Mechanicum – Knight Atrapos

Hey guys,

What’s this? Three updates in a row? What madness is this???

Anyway, today we add a Knight Atrapos to the mechanicum. I love the forge world knights. They look fantastic and are so much more poseable compared with the Games Workshop knight (which I also love, by the way). This guy is still WIP, as he needs some more transfers, weathering and maybe some lighting effects around the guns. Still, good enough for the table. Also happy I found a use for Perturabo’s ridiculous base.

So far I’ve actually been a little disappointed with this guy on the table. Don’t get me wrong; his rules make him one of the best knight’s going around. I just seem to have really bad luck with him. So far he’s managed to injure himself most times he’s fired and has yet to get a vortex for his main gun. Still, on paper this guy should be amazing. He’s basically a Knight Errant on steroids, plus with amazing survivability. This guy works really well with the mechanicum, who sometimes lack large blasts and AP2.

Cheers guys.

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Mechanicum – Castallax

Hey guys,

More mechanicum, this time some castallax robots. These guys are probably the quintessential mechanicum unit in 30k. Hard as nails and can unleash a tonne of pain on the table. I haven’t used these guys much (being the tread-head that I am), but they’ve done really well on the times I’ve gotten them onto a battlefield. These guys are particularly good at controlling the middle of the table, forcing the enemy back off objectives so your scoring units can move in. I personally run them in squads of three armed with mauler bolters and siege wreckers. I always give them siege wreckers as it makes them so much more versatile on the table. At strength six they really struggle with dreadnoughts and can’t hurt things like land raiders. At strength ten, it’s a whole different story.

The siege wreckers are just from centurians, and I cut off the little domes on the head sections of the castellax to avoid them looking like sad frogs (once you see it, you can never un-see it).

Cheers guys.

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Mechanicum – Arlatax

Oh yeah! So apparently I still have a blog, not that it’s looked like it for the past very long time. I’d offer apologies, but nobody cares about that. Instead, I’m just going to throw up some pics of new things.

Despite the complete lack of updates, my hobby has actually been making progress. The mechanicum army is coming along nicely, and I’ve even managed to have a few games with them. I love the mechanicum play style and they’ve been really competitive so far.

I thought I’d start with something a bit different, with some conversions for the Arlatax robots that got rules in book 5 (i think). There guys are great fun on the table, basically castallax with jump packs. They’re expensive, and work best in a Cybernetica mechanicum army for the longer range on the cortex controllers. You want these guys getting into the enemy’s lines quickly, and not having to worry about programmed behaviour is really handy.

The photos aren’t great because both my camera and computer with image software died. Phone camera don’t fail me now!

Cheers guys!

Posted in Adeptus Mechanicum, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Zone Mortalis table for under $100 – part one

Hey guys,

Apparently I’m on a bit of a terrain bender at the moment. I’ve only had a couple of games of Zone Mortalis, but really enjoyed the games that I’ve had. I love the table that Forge World produces, however they’re a little to expensive for me to justify, especially considering I’m not sure how often I’d use it. So, I thought I’d make my own.

How hard could it be…

I’ve been trying to figure out how to go about doing this, and I decided on a series of movable wall sections. I bought all the materials for the table at my local Bunnings store, but obviously any equivalent would do. The main materials cost me well under $100 dollars.

The first step is to build a series of blank wall sections. The design I’m using will be a blank wall section with a buttress on one side. The wall sections can then be positioned sitting up against the buttresses. This is a similar system to the one used by Games Workshop’s cities of death terrain.

Here’s a look at the materials I used.

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So, the first step is to cut strips of 3mm MDF to act as the bases and tops of each of the wall sections. These should be cut to the same width as the buttresses that will be used. I found the easiest way to do this was to use the pieces of wood used for the buttresses as a measure for these sections.

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I wanted to use pre-cut timbre that was one inch wide for the buttresses, but the closest I could find was 30mm. The length of these pieces is the width you want for the corridor, plus the width of the buttress. In my case, I wanted the corridors to be four inches wide, and so cut the base plates appropriately. I made these wall sections in two sizes, one 4 inches plus the width of buttress, and the other twice that. You’ll need two strips of these per wall section.

The next stage is to cut the buttresses. Obviously, the height you cut the buttresses is the height the corridors will end up being, plus the height of the top and bottom sections (6mm). I made the buttresses to be the same height as Cities of Death sections. You’ll need one of these per wall section, plus a few extras to cap off walls that end without butting up to other wall sections. I made twelve extra.

Now, you need the walls themselves. I made these from foam core board, as it’s cheap and easy to work with. Obviously you want these to be four inches long and the height of a CoD tile. It’s best to do this in long strips and mass produce them. I doubled these up per wall section to try and give each section a bit of extra strength. Foam core is also handy as you can trim them as necessary to try and compensate for any imperfections in the sizes of the buttresses and base plates.

Now, repeat! I found you will need between 20 and 25 sections of wall per 2’x4′ board section.

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Next, assemble! These are really easy to stick together. I used a hot glue gun, although you could add a few screws to help keep the buttresses and top and bottom sections together. Below are examples of the two different sizes for the wall sections.

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And below, you can start to see the vague idea behind the design and how the wall sections interact.20160918_134905

Right! Now you should have a giant pile of blank wall sections. Next step is to decorate. This is where most of the cost comes in, and where a lot of the time is spent. CNC workshop does a great product called a widget pack, which is basically a whole series of MDF laser cut decorative details for terrain, like fans, vents and other gubinz. Wooden beading (strips of wood used to edge windows and the like), and dowel are also really handy for this. Both of these should be available from any Bunnings or equivalent store. Guitar wire and plastic decorative strips for hobby work is also good. Use your imagination for this and have fun!

Here’s an example of some of the sections I ended up with.

You’ll also need some practical components, like door sections. I used sections of 6mm MDF. These were cut to 4 inches to match the width of the corridor, and the same height as the walls plus 6mm, to compensate for the added height of the top and bottom plates of MDF. I then decorated these with a couple of bits of beading, and I’ll probably add extra details later.

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I also made a few different sections of wall, designed to add a bit of interest to the table. These doors were fiddly to make, but I think they should be useful. The doorways are 2 inches wide, so they act as a choke point for dreadnoughts and other large-based  models. The doors can also be opened and closed.

I’ve always been of the opinion that if something is worth doing, it’s worth overdoing! So, I made sixty wall sections, which was enough to cover a 6×4 table with a moderate amount of terrain.

I still need to make some base boards for the table, and obviously get some paint on it. But I think that should do for now!

Cheers guys!

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New Apocalypse Table -Update

Hi guys,

Progress on the apocalypse table! This time with some paint on the new terrain and some base boards to go with them. Combined with my city fight table, this gives me a 6 by 12 foot board, which should be plenty of room to have some apocalyptic carnage. I’ve also made a few dedicated terrain pieces to try and thematically link the city with the new pieces.

First up are the hills and fortifications, newly painted.

And the table combined!

Cheers guys

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A new apocalypse table

Hey guys,

One of the best things of moving house is I now have a large garage not currently doing anything. It has been claimed in the name of the Emperor and renamed the Hobby Den. First thing’s first was to make the Hobby Den a bit more livable. This involved adding some insulation to the ceiling, clearing away some of the old junk and getting some new shelves set up. It’s still a work in progress, but starting to get somewhere!img_2778

Also, as a side note, don’t go around adding insulation without professional assistance! Power cables are usually hidden in the ceiling and you don’t want to mess around with that.

In regards to my hobby, I have an unhealthy obsession with massive games using massive models. So, naturally the first thing I thought of when I saw the size of the Hobby Den was Apoc Table! At the moment my only real terrain is the city fight table. I will definitely want to expand this into a full apoc table (because I’m a glutton for punishment), but that’s definitely a long-term project. In the mean time, I figure the fastest way to expand the terrain collection was to add some ash waste terrain as if surrounding the city. I love the Forgeworld display table based on the battle for Istvaan V, and drew a lot of inspiration from this.

So, the terrain was designed to be pretty quick and easy to make, and is mainly composed of simple hills. Hopefully they look alright at the end.

The first step was to cut up some basic shapes to act as bases from the hills. I used 3mm MDF cut using a jigsaw. The next step was to cut up the basic shape of the hills using high-density insulation foam.

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I wanted to have some rocky outcrops over the hills, and thought the easiest way to do this was to glue real rocks to it. I got a bag of shale for about $10 from Bunnings and then used a hot glue gun to attach them to the hills.

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The next step was to use some gap filler, usually used for filling cracks in walls, and use this to smooth over where the edges of the rocks meet the foam of the hill. Try to avoid getting to much gap filler on the main faces of the rocks, as you want to try and preserve the details of the stone. The gap filler will probably take a good few hours to dry. Once it’s dry, fill any more gaps if necessary. When it’s all dry, give it a quick sand to take away the worst of the rough edges.

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The next step was to add some small pebbles and rocks to add extra details, and then apply sand to the rest of the hill. I found the easiest way to do this is paint PVA over everything except the large rocks, and then sprinkle on the pebbles, followed by sand. Again, wait for this to dry.

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I made several different pieces, adding in dugouts and weapon emplacements on a few of them.

That’s the basic hills constructed, so the next step will be to apply some paint.

Cheers guys!

 

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Mechanicum – Myrmidon Destructors

Hi guys,

More Mechanicum, this time a squad of Myrmidon Destructors. One of the interesting things I’m finding with this army is that because all the models are so different, I need to reinvent the colour scheme for every new squad. Although I’m happy with the overall colour scheme, finding the right balance on each new squad can be surprisingly tricky. I found this squad particularly difficult. Originally I wanted to do them with the same glossy red on their armour as the rest of the army. However, after trialling five or six different version, I just couldn’t get it to work. I tried black robes highlighted grey, black robes highlighted red, and several other different combinations, none of which worked. In the end I settled on red robes and black armour, which I think works with the rest of the test models.

I also did some minor conversions on the squad, mainly to magnitise their weapons. I want to be able to switch between different weapon loadouts, and thought this would be the easiest way.

Cheers guys

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