So this is a tutorial I’ve been meaning to do for a while now. Over the course of doing this army a few people have asked me how I do the yellow on the Imperial Fists. The truth is I’ve tried several different techniques on both test models and models in the army. Below is the technique I’ve settled on for the bulk of the army. I find it gives the best mix of ease and speed, while still giving a good result.
Also, I apologize for the not great pics. Photographing yellow is hard at the best of times, so it’s sometimes hard to see the changes in the pics below. The differences between stages are a lot more noticeable in the flesh.
Step 1. It’s fairly obvious, but start with a white undercoat. Sorry for white on white pic here…
Step 2. Paint the whole model Yriel Yellow. You want a solid coat of paint here, so you might need to do two coats.
Step 3. Do an edge highlight of Flash Gitz Yellow.
Step 4. Wash the model with a mix of one part Casandora Yellow and four parts water. This should blend the yriel and flash gitz yellow, as well as give a bit more warmth and depth to the colour.
Step 5. Next step is a targeted wash of one part seraphim sepia and three parts water. This is a targeted wash, focusing on the recesses of the armour. When I say a targeted wash, I mean you are painting the wash over specific sections of the armour, rather than the whole model.
Step 6. Another targeted wash, this time of pure seraphim sepia in the deepest recesses of the model and around details you want to draw attention to. I use this to edge the details on the helmets and back packs as well. This is the basic yellow finished at this stage.
Step 7. Next, I paint the rest of the details of the model.
Step 8. As with the tanks in the army, the weathering is an important component in the final look of the models. So, now on to weathering. Firstly, I sponge on a 50/50 mix of Rhinox Hide and Abaddon Black. The sponged on chipping focuses on the edges of the armour, especially around the legs. Then, paint a small amount of Leadbelchers in the middle of the larger chips.
Step 9. Finally, brush on Old Rust weathering powder, followed by Light Rust weathering powder. Again, these are concentrated on the lower sections of the model. Once this has been done, seal the weathering powders with a matt varnish.
And that’s basically it. I’ve found it to be a fairly simple technique, but one that still looks good on the table. Hope that helps, and if you have any questions, just leave a comment below.